Frequently Asked Questions

Austin area, Round Rock, Cedar Park, Pflugerville, Bee Cave, and Lakeway. If you live outside these areas, we may be able to accommodate you with an additional trip charge based on your location.

Not typically, but we do everything to accommodate after-hours & weekend emergency situations on a by-request basis. Overtime fees may be assessed based on the time/location.

It depends on the type of filter but replacing every 6 months is a good rule of thumb. The location varies but it will always be close to your return air vent. The filter is typically located in the blower door of your furnace or between the blower and the return air grille. Always note the direction of airflow and insert the new filter in the right direction.

You want to set it at a temperature that suits your comfort level but 78 is a recommended setting for summer & 68-70 for winter. Also, once you set the thermostat at the desired temperature, leave it alone. Frequent adjustment of the thermostat increases the load on your heating/cooling system & thereby increases your energy costs.

We deal with all major equipment brands & are experts on warranties. Give us a call & we’ll be happy to research for you free of charge.

The culprit of major heating/cooling equipment breakdowns is typically a small problem that goes unattended. Our Priority One Residential Service Agreement entitles you to a Spring and Fall check each year for the term of your agreement. By checking your system twice a year, we usually detect any small problems that could ultimately lead to big problems later.

A refrigerant problem usually shows up as air that feels less cold than it should, longer run times, and sometimes ice on the indoor coil or refrigerant lines. Airflow problems feel like weak air coming out of vents, certain rooms not cooling, or the system getting noisy because it is straining to move air. Electrical issues tend to look like the system not turning on, shutting off randomly, or repeatedly tripping a breaker. If you see ice, smell burning, or breakers keep tripping, turn the system off and get it checked.

Not always, but ductwork can make or break how well a new system performs. If your ducts are leaky, undersized, crushed, or poorly balanced, even a brand-new unit can struggle, run longer, and leave rooms uneven. A quick duct evaluation can confirm whether sealing, repairs, or resizing is needed so your new AC can deliver the comfort and efficiency you expect.

Proper sizing starts with a load calculation that considers square footage, insulation, windows, sun exposure, and the layout of the home. If a system is oversized, it can cool too fast and shut off before it removes enough humidity, leaving the home cool but sticky and increasing wear from short cycling. If it is undersized, it can run nonstop on hot days and still fall behind. The goal is a system that runs steady, keeps humidity under control, and cools evenly.

In Texas, the minimum efficiency for many new split-system AC installs is typically 14.3 SEER2, and that is the baseline you will see most often. Going higher can make sense if you cool your home a lot, have high electric bills, plan to stay in the home for years, or want quieter operation and better comfort features that often come with higher-end systems. If you are chasing tax credits, the efficiency requirement can be higher, such as SEER2 17.0 or above for some programs.

In Austin, a heat pump is often a great upgrade because it cools like a standard AC and also heats efficiently in mild winter weather. It can be a smart fit if your home is all-electric, you want more efficient heating, or you want one system that handles both seasons. If you already have gas heat and like it for the coldest nights, a hybrid setup can be a good middle ground.

A quality install includes correctly sizing the system, confirming the ductwork can deliver the airflow the unit needs, and setting up drainage so you do not end up with moisture problems. It also includes proper refrigerant charging, checking electrical connections, testing temperature split, verifying airflow, and making sure the thermostat is configured correctly. Those setup details are what separate a system that just turns on from one that runs efficiently and lasts.

Yes, many times it can be fixed without replacement. Common causes include duct leaks, poor return air paths, closed or undersized vents, insulation gaps, and sun exposure in certain rooms. Solutions can be as simple as airflow balancing, duct sealing, adding a return, or addressing attic insulation. If the issue is caused by an oversized or undersized system, then replacement might be part of the long-term fix, but it is not always the first step.

The biggest difference makers are the simple ones done consistently: change filters on schedule, keep the outdoor unit clear of debris, and make sure condensate drains stay open so water does not back up. A tune-up before peak summer can catch low airflow, weak electrical components, and refrigerant or drainage issues early. If your home has comfort problems like humidity or uneven cooling, fixing the underlying airflow or duct issues also reduces strain and helps your system last longer.

We encourage people to keep their existing heating/ac units if they’re still performing well and are not racking up high maintenance bills. We’ve seen units that have been well maintained operating well past the 20-year mark. A general rule of thumb is you don’t consider replacement if the unit is under 10 years old but again, it all depends on how the system is performing & the costs that you are incurring through maintenance and/or your monthly energy bills.

Purchase incentives are available via rebates from local energy providers and/or the equipment manufacturers. In addition, financing is available for up to 10 years through energy providers and third-party financing organizations for credit-worthy applicants. We’re experts on all of the options available so give us a call & we’ll be happy to discuss in more detail what’s available & appropriate for your situation.

If the system will not turn on at all, it is often a thermostat, power, or safety switch issue. If it turns on but you get weak airflow, the problem is usually airflow-related (dirty filter, blower issue, or duct restriction). If airflow is strong but the air is not warm, it can point to an ignition, burner, or heat exchanger issue in a furnace, or a refrigerant or reversing valve issue in a heat pump. A technician can narrow this down quickly by checking temperature rise, airflow, and safety controls.

That is called short cycling. It can happen when airflow is restricted, the system is overheating and shutting down for safety, or the thermostat is placed where it gets “fooled” by drafts or heat sources. Short cycling wastes energy and wears parts out faster, so it is worth addressing early instead of letting it run that way all winter.

Most of the time, it is not the heater itself. It is usually duct leakage, unbalanced airflow, a missing or undersized return path, or insulation issues in the attic or exterior walls. The fix can be as simple as balancing dampers, sealing ducts, adding a return, or improving attic insulation, which is often cheaper than replacing equipment.

For Austin’s climate, heat pumps are often an excellent option because they provide efficient heating for mild winters and also handle cooling. A furnace can still make sense if you prefer gas heat, want very hot supply air, or have an existing gas setup you like. Many homeowners choose a heat pump for efficiency and comfort, and some choose a dual-fuel setup for flexibility on colder nights.

A light dusty smell for the first few cycles can be normal as dust burns off the heat exchanger. But strong, sharp, electrical, or plastic-like smells are not normal. If the odor is intense, lasts more than a short period, or you see any smoke, shut the system off and schedule service.

That usually happens when the system is running longer than it should due to airflow restrictions, duct leakage, a thermostat issue, or a component that is underperforming. It can also happen if the system is oversized and short cycling, which is inefficient. Fixing the root cause often lowers bills and improves comfort at the same time.

Change filters on schedule, keep vents open and unblocked, and do not ignore early warning signs like new noises or short cycling. Schedule maintenance before the first cold front so small issues are caught early. If your home struggles with uneven heat or weak airflow, addressing duct leakage and return air problems also reduces strain on the system and helps it last longer.

If dust builds up fast, rooms smell musty, or allergies spike when the system runs, the issue is often airflow and filtration, and sometimes leaky ductwork pulling in attic air. If the home feels clammy even when it is cool, humidity control is usually the missing piece. The fastest way to pinpoint it is to look at filter fit and MERV level, check duct leakage and return air, and verify the system is actually removing moisture the way it should.

It can if the filter is too restrictive for your system or if it is not changed often enough. The goal is to choose a filtration upgrade that improves particle capture without starving the system for air. That usually means matching the filter type and thickness to your equipment and duct setup, and making sure the filter rack seals properly so air is not bypassing the filter.

A real energy audit looks at how your home loses and gains heat, not just the HVAC equipment. That includes attic insulation levels, duct leakage, and other efficiency weak spots that cause hot rooms in summer and high bills year-round. The result should be a prioritized list of improvements that give you the biggest comfort and savings impact first.

It helps both. In Austin, attic heat gain can make ceilings and upstairs rooms feel hot even when the AC is running. Adding insulation helps your home hold onto cool air longer, reduces run time, and can make temperatures feel more even from room to room.

Leaky ducts can pull in attic air, insulation fibers, dust, and other irritants, then distribute them through the home. Sealing reduces that unwanted air entry, which often means less dust on surfaces, fewer musty smells, and cleaner supply air overall.

Solar screens reduce solar heat gain through windows, which can help rooms that bake in afternoon sun feel less intense and reduce the workload on the AC. They are especially useful for west-facing windows or rooms that are consistently warmer than the rest of the house even when airflow is good.

Portable purifiers can help a single room, but whole-home filtration treats the air as it cycles through your HVAC system, so it can reduce dust and allergens across the entire house. The best setup depends on your symptoms, how tight your home is, and whether duct leakage or humidity is contributing to the problem.

Some weatherization improvements can qualify for rebates and incentives. Totally Cool notes they are a registered Austin Energy contractor and aim to help customers receive maximum rebates for weatherization improvements.